Receiver Mods:

Fix for Low Flight Times
Author: Piper J3
Author Email: Piper J3 at RCGroups
Specs:
Material Required:
Downloads available:
Notes: You need to disassemble the teeny tiny plug on the Heli first by lifting the plastic locking tangs – one for each pin/wire. Good to have magnifying glass and bright lighting available for this kind of work.

Best to make a diagram of black and red wire with respect to red dot on plastic housing so you put it back together with correct polarity, otherwise you’ll probably make toast if you reassemble incorrectly. Now pull the wire/pins out of the plastic housing using small needle nose pliers and/or by pushing on end of pins – you need to experiment here to prevent bending/distorting the pins. At this point you should have individual wires/pins free from the plastic housing.

Don’t panic... Use a “C” clamp or alligator clip to hold the wire approximately ½” from the pin and position the pin so that the crimp opening is “up”. This will free-up both of your hands so one hand can hold the soldering iron and other hand to feed solder. Now you are ready to solder. You will need a pencil tip soldering iron as used for circuit board work. Do not use a large soldering iron! If necessary, go to Radio Shack and open your wallet. While you’re at RS pick up some very thin gauge solder and also non-corrosive soldering flux. When iron is fully heated, you’re ready to solder as follows:

Unroll a length of solder and dip end into flux – only very small amount of flux needed. Now using standard soldering techniques heat pin with iron and apply small amount of solder/flux first onto the open crimp of pin and then touch the iron to the pin itself in order to “tin” the pin. Pin should be bright and shinny, but without excess solder accumulation. Do both pins and then reinstall into plastic housing with correct polarity. Use needle nose pliers on wire just behind pin to push into housing. It’s OK to break off the plastic locking tangs – pins are a very snug press fit. If tangs break off then you can use a small jeweler flat blade screwdriver and pull/push the pins where the locking tang used to be. Make certain that both bins extend into plastic housing equal length. Doesn’t seem to be a problem if pins extend quite long into the housing. That should do it. Good luck and report back if further help/guidance is needed.


Motor Connector Mod
Author: MarioArguello
Author Email: MarioArguello at RCGroups
Specs:
Material Required:
Downloads available:
Notes: No need to say I am very happy with the Blade MCX, but after a while I started to get what appeared low flights on a full battery charge, the helicopter would slowly come down not even after a minute of flight.

At first I thought it was an exausted battery, but the helicopter is not pulling that much current that it will exaust the batteries that fast. I have very low flights also on mine.

Upon inspection for a loose connection, I found that the connector pins inside the connector for the motors, on the PCB side, had craks. How this happened?, my guess is that that if they are pressed too hard over them while handling the helicopter, you risk breaking those tiny connectors, so be careful how you handle the helicopter.

Not having spare ones at hand, not sure if spare connectors of this type, are even offered, but I simply took a couple walkera 4#3 motor connectors, cut the wire leads short and installed on the PCB. The Male end plugs from the MCX motors sit well inside the female Walkera motor connectors, so this fixed it and I am back flying with great power and regular flight times.

I wanted to pass this on. If you are experiencing low flights, check to see if you have an intermittent connection on the motor connectors to the PCB. Depending on specific case, It is also possible that it could be due to other reasons, but most likely any intermittent "power" related connecion will shut down the controller prematurely and you will see what appears as the result of low batttery.

Also if you notice your helicopter not as reactive in yaw , not fast enough, it is possible one of the motor connectors might be loose and full power is not getting to one of the rotor motors. I was also noticing this, before discovering the problem with the cracked connector pins.

To unistall and re-install the PCB, I used the MIA Precision screwdriver, which was developed for the Walkera 4#3 rotor head tiny screws, but I found that it works perfectly, also, with ALL the MCX tiny screws.